1965 Mustang Fastback for sale

Sold 4/21/2010


This is a one of a kind 1965 Mustang fastback 2+2 Shelby clone featuring a performance built 351 Cleveland (351c) 4V engine making 300 horsepower at the wheels. You don’t find too many 65 Mustangs with this much power! Add to it the new 4 wheel power disc brakes, 3.80 traction loc rear gear and new suspension with a slightly higher rear and lower nose, this is a very streetable and muscular 1965 mustang. In the last six years we’ve driven the car less than 5,000 miles and less than 300 miles since the engine’s latest rebuild.

Drive Train

The 351C with 4BBL heads makes around 360hp at 6000rpm at the flywheel. See dyno sheet for power chart (at the wheels). The short block was built by Performance Auto in Waterloo Iowa a few years ago. More recently, the heads were completely rebuilt and the valve train was assembled by HiTech Motorsport in Elk River, MN where it was tuned and dyno’d. The engine idles at 800rpm and is slightly lumpy with a muscular sound. The dual exhaust is 2.5 inch diameter with Flowmaster mufflers and an H pipe. The headers are custom block hugging headers that were necessary to fit the engine. The shock towers were also cut back in the engine bay for fitment. The battery has been relocated to the trunk. The rear is a Ford 8” with 3.80 traction loc gears. The car was also just fitted with a new 3” diameter driveshaft that is compatible with a Ford AOD transmission swap (we planned on putting in an AOD in the near future). The radiator is new and oversized to match the engine and a new transmission cooler sits nicely in front of the radiator. An electric fan sits on the backside of the radiator to cool the engine.

Engine Internals

The engine was bored 0.030 over and stuffed with Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons with 10.6 to 1 compression. The engine has a hydraulic roller conversion so it uses the more modern and efficient hydraulic roller lifters. The roller cam is a crane Powermax retrofit (click for specs). The engine also features roller rockers at 1.6 ratio, trick flow custom length push rods, high flow oil pump, windage tray, edelbrock Torker II aluminum air intake, Holley double pumper carb, and K&N hi flow filter with filter top cover.

Performance Potential

Our longer term plans for the car were to get a new cowl hood for more clearance and swap in an Edelbrock Air Gap intake for an additional 20 horsepower or so. In addition, swap the old cast iron heads for the latest aluminum heads and you’ll have a 65’ mustang with 450 horsepower.


Stock C-4 transmission with transmission cooler installed on radiator. The transmission shifts rather slowly for a performance vehicle and could use a shift kit for firmer shifts. A 2,500 – 2,800 rpm converter would also be very good for performance. Ford AOD swaps are common and something we planned to do in the near future to bring the highway engine rpms down.


The body has been fitted with a Shelby front apron and bumper removed for the retro racing look. GT350 stickers are along the sides of the car and a GT 350 Gas cap and emblem are on the rear of the car. The bodywork is good, but by no means a professional job. It looks great from five feet away and there is a little body filler bubbling around the rear fender wells. Please look at the photos in detail for your own analysis.

The paint is Shelby GT 350 colors – Wimbledon White with Guardsman blue stripes and was applied in 2005. The front grill and rear side window vents have some unique blue highlighting that match the stripes.

The hood uses hood pins as did the Shelby race car. Unfortunately while the car was being worked on, the mechanic forgot to put the pins back in and drove the car off. The hood came up at around 20mph and created some creases (view pics of hood).


The interior is stock with the exception of an in dash CD player and rear speakers, Shelby steering wheel, and circular 1966 gauge cluster. There is some tearing in the driver’s seat cover, which can be replaced rather inexpensively. We also had seat belts installed in for the rear seats as they did not come with the car originally.

Suspension and Wheels

The suspension was completely replaced in 2005 by a professional shop. New front coil springs 1” lowered, new rear leaf springs that are slightly raised in the back, new pitman arms, idler arms, A arms and ball joints in the front, etc. We added a large diameter sway bar in the front for cornering performance.

The same professional shop also removed the drum brakes and installed disk brakes all the way around along with vacuum assist power brakes and the flaming river steering box. The steering box was a slightly quicker ratio for fewer turns of the wheel. The steering is manual as there is no power steering pump.

The wheels are American Racing Torque Thrust II and are 16” in the front and 17” in the rear. The low profile H rated tires are very grippy and look brand new. They’re the widest tire we could fit in the rear.

What it needs

Speedometer is off because of the gear change. The custom built headers leak some, so you may smell of exhaust after driving the car for a while. 351C swap headers are available for this application and I’d recommend installing them at some point. The rear end has a vibration at cruising speeds above 50mph. The driveshaft may need additional balancing or third member in rear replaced. The hood has creases near the hinge area as someone forgot to put in the hood pins once. Rear bumper has slight bend. This is a 45 year old car and there will always be little things that need attention.

Extras Included

Chrome finished export brace. Custom ground retrofit camshaft slightly more aggressive than what is currently installed.

Holley carburetor bog and hestitation fixed 3

The Application:
351 4V Cleveland (351C) in a 1965 Mustang (Yes, that is right) with a lumpy roller cam and single plane Edelbrock intake with a Holley 4777-5 double pumper 650 carburetor.   C-4 automatic transmission with stock lock up converter (I know, it will be going away soon!).  The  huge 4V Cleveland heads with a single plane intake and mild street cam (224 intake and 232 exhaust at 0.050) makes for under performing driving conditions in the lower rpms.

The Problem:

If you attempt to accelerate too hard off idle, to the point where the secondaries kick in, the car bogs and stumbles to the point where it dies unless you lift your foot off the pedal. Quarter or part throttle acceleration is fine and acceleration once the engine is up to 3000 rpm’s and over is fine; no stumbles. Backfiring would occur occasionally when the engine was cold.

The Thought Process:

From what I read online and heard from my friends at Hi-Tech Motorsport, who specializes in racing engines in Elk River MN, about the problem, most likely the engine was not getting enough fuel when you stomp on the throttle from a low rpm.  After two weeks of reading online here and there and some bedtime reading in a Holley carburetor book I purchased, I removed the carb and cleaned it all up in my garage.  I verified that the 30cc power valve was not damaged and the accelerator pump arms where properly adjusted with the spring.  While I had the carburetor off I checked the accelerator pump squirters and noticed the front was a number 31 and the back was a number 35.  According to sources I found online, the 4777-5 Holley double pumper originally came with number 28’s in both the front and rear, so somebody must have changed these already (I’m pretty certain I acquired the carb second hand).  Because the squirters were already larger than normal, I was hesitant that another increase in squirter size was the solution.

The Solution:

It was obvious to me the problem lied in the secondaries. I purchased a larger 40cc accelerator pump squirter and the screw with hole in the middle as holley recommended for any squirter above 39cc. squirter and screw squirter location
I replaced the orange pump cam in the front with the brown cam that allows a longer duration and higher lift, which allows more fuel when the throttle is pushed further. This should aid the secondaries and help with a little overlap of fuel when I mash the throttle. Also, I put the blue cam in the rear for the secondaries because it has a more aggressive ramp and will shoot more fuel in quicker than other pump cams when the secondaries are activated. medium-pump-cam-intro pump cams


While I was surprised my little 358ci engine required a 40cc accelerator pump squirter, it certainly did the trick.  It definitely makes a difference if the engine is well warmed up after 15 minutes of driving.  I may swap in a 42cc squirter in the coming weeks to see if there is any additional improvement when the engine isn’t completely warmed up.